Although they're not perfect, Pete Wells finds a lot of reasons to like The Peacock and The Shakespeare in The William Hotel. Both restaurants serve food from chef Robert Aikens, but Wells prefers the menu at the former: "For gammon steak, which in most parts of England would mean a slice of ham on a plate, canned pineapple optional, he starts from scratch. The ham is pork loin, brined in the kitchen, then grilled, as is the slab of fresh pineapple. Potato purée below, a sunny-side egg on top. I can't imagine finding a better gammon steak in England." Wells gives both restaurants one star. [NYT]
Michael Kaminer is bored by Craig Koketsu's menu at General Assembly: "Diners will appreciate the down-home intentions behind pink-lentil-crusted skate ($25), which Koketsu dusts with panko crumbs. But the fish looks off-puttingly like orange fried chicken, and the rough coating subdues the skate's clean, meaty essence. The kitchen should have ladled on more of the pungent sliced pickles and bracing yogurt sauce." Two stars out of five. [NYDN]
Daniel S. Meyer is disappointed by Telepan local: "There's only one jaw-dropping headliner on a menu that's filled with so-so opening acts. Typically ho-hum watercress ($9) is transformed into a bewitching plate, its fresh leaves dredged and fried crisp like a tempura salad, with chili-oil vinaigrette amplifying the trace spiciness of the greens. Beyond that seasonal stunner, there are preposterously chewy grilled octopus ($15) and pizzette ($14) no better than a grab-and-go slice." The critic gives the restaurant two stars out of five. [TONY]
[Navy by Daniel Krieger]
Joshua David Stein loves the look of the space (and the crowd) at Navy. Chef Camille Becerra's food is less exciting: "In the good enough column is a black bass crudo with apple, avocado and lime yogurt ($15), a wholesome creation that, like wooden children's toys, is edifying in its sensibility. And a parsnip salad ($14), seemingly the most boring creation imaginable, was sculptural, with a strong interplay of flavors and textures." Stein gives the restaurant three stars out of five. [The Observer]
[Telepan Local by Daniel Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene is a big fan of The Cecil in Harlem, Amelia Lester of Tables for Two is disappointed by Telepan Local, and Ligaya Mishan finds some hits and misses at Mountain Bird in Harlem.
[The Clam by Daniel Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Immaculate Infatuation's Chris Stang gives an 8.3 rating to The Clam in the West Village, Serious Eats blogger Craig Cavallo digs The Grocery in Cobble Hill, Hannah Palmer Egan finds a mixed bag at Margaux, Restaurant Girl enjoys her meal at Telepan Local, The Pink Pig thinks that All'onda is a lovely restaurant despite some flaws, The Food Doc has a satisfying dinner at Bobby Flay's Gato, Joe DiStefano samples the soup at Bella Roza in Rego Park, and NY Journal loves the revamped bistro menu at Montmartre.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
[Top photo: The Peacock by Bess Adler]