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Spurred on by the recent closure of Suenos, Josh Ozersky bemoans the impending death of the neighborhood restaurant. He mourns the loss of institutions like Manatus, and blames increasing rents for the proliferation of "big ballers" like Ahmass Fakahany, RedFarm, and the EMM Group serving "Cheesecake Factory food, designed to hit all the bliss points but masquerading as something better." [NYO]


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