This week, Ligaya Mishan reviews Kung Fu Little Steamed Buns Ramen, which does not, in fact, serve Japanese ramen but instead Chinese hand-pulled noodles. Chef Peter Song got his start at the famed Lan Zhou Handmade Noodle, and now makes noodles that are "chewy, dense and so delicious that the soup they swim in seems almost superfluous." [NYT]
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