Pete Wells takes a break from the city to review the Virgina restaurants of mysterious chef Peter Chang. Wells writes: "The fans who say that the best Peter Chang restaurant is the one where Mr. Chang is cooking may be on to something. The best of my three meals, start to finish, was the one in Short Pump. But the others still offered cooking of unusual power and subtlety, and introduced me to dishes I'll remember for a long time." [NYT] [Photo Credit]
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