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At Parmys Persian Fusion, the subject of this week's Hungry City review, most of the recipes come from the owners' Iranian mother and there are shakers of sumac on the tables. Here's Ligaya Mishan on the kebabs: "Best are the lamb chops sweetened with a red-wine-vinegar reduction; Cornish game hen soaked in saffron and lemon; and koobideh, a mash of beef ground three times and adrenalized with jalapeños." [NYT]

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