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Wells Gives One Star to The Peacock & The Shakespeare

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The Peacock by Bess Adler

Although someone spilled a beer on him during one of his visits, Pete Wells likes the The Shakespeare and The Peacock in The William Hotel. The former is a casual pub, while the latter is a sit-down restaurant, and both serve food from English-born chef Robert Aikens. Soggy Pete has a better time in the formal restaurant upstairs:

Details elevate dishes like an honest chicken soup, or grilled Spanish mackerel on toast: the velvety, chardlike softness of the wilted spinach; the sweet-tart tension of the sherry vinaigrette; the crisp snap of the bacon.

Roasted chicken came with a terrific plank of fresh pork-and-sage sausage and a run of gravy that neatly managed to taste rich but not oily. I appreciated the robust and musky spices and the fluffy grains of biriyani rice with a lamb curry straight from the kitchens of the Raj.

The pub room can be crowded, and the menu is less consistently strong. But overall, Wells thinks that each restaurant deserves a star.
· Upstairs, Downstairs, British All Around [NYT]
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]

The Shakespeare @ The William

24 E 39th St, New York, NY 10016

The William Hotel

24 East 39th St., New York, NY