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Week in Reviews

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In this week's Hungry City column, Ligaya Mishan reviews Sushi Katsuei, a Park Slope Japanese newcomer. Go for the omakase, she says, for which the three expert sushi chefs prepare a procession of classics like "hamachi dimpling from pink to red under a daub of fresh wasabi...scallop stroked with lemon; king salmon on the verge of abandoning solidity." [NYT]