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Instead of a review this week, Pete Wells lists his 10 favorite ramen restaurants in New York City. Number one is Joshua and Heidy Smookler's Mu pop-up: "Mu's cloudy tonkotsu broth, simmered with pork bones for most of a day, stopped me cold. It had the body of old-fashioned, cream-on-top milk from a tiny dairy. Of course it clings to the thin, straight, firm noodles, which do a little jitterbug as you reel them into your mouth." [NYT]