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Week in Reviews

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For this week's Hungry City column, Ligaya Mishan visits the "curious and endearing" and much talked about Mountain Bird. She finds some of the dishes monotonous, but notes an "exciting cassoulet, craggy and disheveled...Massed in its depths are turkey and chicken sausages, duck leg, turkey bacon and more cockscombs and gizzards, all conspiring to render pork irrelevant."