Pete Wells likes the fact that Rôtisserie Georgette serves a straightforward menu of roasted meats, salads, and potatoes. The critic thinks that Georgette Farkas has created a comfortable, adult restaurant with a kitchen that delivers the goods:
Rôtisserie Georgette will sell you half a chicken for $24 or a whole one, which feeds two people for $36 each. The economy model, raised on an Amish farm in Indiana, is rubbed with herbes de Provence and cracked coriander seeds. Roasted chickens don't always pick up the flavor of the herbs they're stuffed with. These birds do. The legs are tender without disintegrating into strands, as rotisserie dark meat can do. The white meat is close to ideal, with just a whisker of dryness at the narrow tips.Wells also praises the chocolate soufflé and pot de crème from Nicole Kaplan, formerly of Del Posto and Eleven Madison Park. Two stars. [NYT]
[All'onda by Daniel Krieger]
Daniel S. Meyer has some problems with the proteins, but he digs many of the starters at All'onda: "All'onda shows occasional bursts of brilliance. Jaeckle's Italian cooking leans to the East with a lyrical hamachi crudo ($17) tickled by olive oil and soy, or creamy fried sweetbreads ($18) spun smoky by fluttering bonito flakes. But the nouveau fusion falters with ricotta tortellini ($17) bobbing like wontons in undersalted kombu-Parmesan broth, a discordant mingling of dairy and dashi." Three stars out of five. [TONY]
[Margaux at The Marlton by Daniel Krieger]
Steve Cuozzo likes some, but not all of the dishes at scenester hangout Margaux at the Marlton: "Urfa biber drifted in from Turkey. Justin's lost cousin? 'No, a dried chili pepper that's really not that hot,' our chatty waiter explained, adding, 'Mario Batali was here and he didn't know what it was, either.' It pungently permeates juicy rotisserie chicken that's a steal for $21.Pasta master Batali has nothing to fear from over-thought, limp squid ink bucatini with lobster and Calabrian chili." Cuozzo gives the restaurant one and a half stars. [NYP]
Michael Kaminer gives three stars out of five to The Astor Room in Astoria: "Mains here offer rebooted classics and jazzy bistro fare. Short rib Stroganoff ($25) is a standout, thanks to winey, fork-tender beef atop a heaping tangle of soft noodles. Both elegant and elemental, it actually improves on a standard. The Astor Burger ($15), reconstituted from ground Porterhouse steak tips, does the same for the humble beef patty. Cooked exactly as ordered, it's a hulking puck of meat topped with a rich truffle-herb aioli on a soft sesame bun. Crispy-outside, fluffy-inside fries make a perfect foil." [NYDN]
[The Elm by Daniel Krieger]
Josh Stein finds that some of the dishes at Paul Liebrandt's The Little Elm fall flat : "Parts of 'Lobster | Yuzukosho' (the latter a Japanese seasoning used for grilled chicken, among other things) worked wonders, especially the charred cabbage over a navy bean and red cabbage marmalade. But an interloper, a vagrant chunk of grilled chicken, lurked on the periphery of the plate. Why was that there?" Stein gives the restaurant two stars out of five. [NYO]
[Dover by Daniel Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene reports that The River Cafe is serving some very good food right now, Amelia Lester of Tables for Two has mixed feelings about Contra, Danyelle Freeman is charmed by Dover in Carroll Gardens, and Ligaya Mishan discovers solid Italian fare at Yorkville wine bar Il Salumaio.
[The Clam by Daniel Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats editors J. Kenji López-Alt finds a mixed bag at The Clam in the West Village, Immaculate Infatuation's Andrew Steinthal gives a 7.9 rating to the Greenwich Village location of Burger Joint, Hannah Palmer Egan gives a thumbs up to Lachlan in Willamsburg, NYC Foodie loves the food and the vibe at Rosette, The Pink Pig has a satisfying meal at the Chez Jef pop-up in the Bowery Diner space, Joe DiStefano recommends ordering the chicharrones at Mission Cantina, and NY Journal enjoys his meal of refined pub grub at The Peacock in Murray Hill.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]