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Gael Greene likes many of the dishes on the menu at the recently-reopened River Cafe. On the duck: "It's grilled to a marvelous crispness in its lavender and spice crusted skin and then divided into two ample steaks: rich and rare. A mound of sweet-and-sour shredded red cabbage and a toss of sweet potato spaetzle represent a starch and a veggie. Simple. Of course the kitchen fusses, but they're not flaunting it." [Insatiable]
