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Gael Greene likes many of the dishes on the menu at the recently-reopened River Cafe. On the duck: "It's grilled to a marvelous crispness in its lavender and spice crusted skin and then divided into two ample steaks: rich and rare. A mound of sweet-and-sour shredded red cabbage and a toss of sweet potato spaetzle represent a starch and a veggie. Simple. Of course the kitchen fusses, but they're not flaunting it." [Insatiable]

The River Café

1 Water Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201 (718) 522-5200 Visit Website

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