Pete Wells Upgrades Annisa to Three Stars

This week, Pete Wells awards three stars to Anita Lo's West Village gem Annisa. The restaurant previously held two Times stars, awarded by Sam Sifton in 2010. Wells is thrilled by chef Lo's globe-trotting menu, and he digs the comfortable, civilized dining room. The critic explains why he upgraded the star count from 2010:

Today, Annisa deserves a third star. Ms. Lo pulled out of a dumpling side project shortly after that review, and it may be that the restaurant has benefited from her undivided attention. She may never have an empire, but she has a superb Greenwich Village restaurant. Then again, it's just as likely that time has simply made it more clear how singular Annisa is. It's still not easy to say what Ms. Lo's style is, but it is hers, and hers alone, and the city is a more exciting place for it.