Adam Platt has a few great meals at Walker Stern and Joseph Ogrodnek's Carroll Gardens restaurant, Dover. The critic misses the intimacy of their other restaurant, Battersby, but he likes a lot of the dishes on the menu. On a few of the hits:
At this modest Court Street establishment, $16 buys a tangle of dark, housemade squid-ink spaghetti folded with preserved chile, peekytoe crab, and a dousing of Meyer lemon. You can complement this dish with a serving of lemony, crunchy cauliflower (tossed with raisins and hazelnuts, among other things), or a rose-colored lamb tartare (with cucumber sauce and a puffy, house-baked pita), or lobster meat, which the highly trained cooks blanch separately, reconstruct in the shell, and then bake in a coating of "butter" made from lobster roe, mustard, and tarragon.Platt thinks that this kind of "classically minded cuisine" from former Manhattan chefs is "becoming a hallmark of the next era of Brooklyn cooking." He suggests skipping the pork belly and the ribeye, and ordering the chicken instead, which bears a striking resemblance to the one at The Nomad. Two stars.
· Battersby Chefs Expand Their Horizons With Dover [GY/NYM]
· All Coverage of Dover [~ENY~]