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[Dover by Krieger]
An appetizer of roasted cauliflower with toasted hazelnuts and raisins built contrasts (sweet and savory, crunchy and soft) so successfully that every bite was different. A $95 seven-course tasting menu brought sunchokes that had been caramelized until they looked like seared scallops. Even the best sunchokes can use a little help, and these got it from tahini and za'atar, along with candied pine nuts that were sweet and airily crunchy, like kids' breakfast cereal.Well notes that the chefs "are cooking to please" at Dover, and they're not interested in "playing along with the clichés about the borough." The critic gives the restaurant two stars. [NYT]
Steve Cuozzo loves the music and the vibe at Minton's in Harlem, and the food fits with the experience: "A la carte prices (apps $18 to $26, soups/salads $14 to $18, and entrees $25 to $46) are peanuts for a meal serenaded (if that's the word for the occasional prolonged drum solo) by a sound increasingly rare in Manhattan. The menu by executive chef Alexander Smalls and chef de cuisine Banks White is just as well calibrated — a well-executed romp through "Southern revival." Not quite three-star, it merges with the music into a three-star night." [NYP]
[Mission Cantina by Krieger]
Daniel S. Meyer gives three stars out of five to Danny Bowien's Mission Cantina: "The genre-bending stunners we've come to expect from Bowien exist beyond the taco template. Crisp chicken wings ($12.50) smolder in a dry rub of mole spices, a balanced onslaught of smoky, spicy, bitter and sweet. Masa cooked à la grits tastes like corn to the infinity power, crowned by a thatch of braised collards tingling with hot sauce and beer ($8.50)." [TONY]
[Contra by Bess Adler]
Adam Platt gives two stars to both Mission Cantina and Contra. On the latter: "My tepid 'slow roasted' pork collar appeared not to have been roasted enough, but my bits of roast chicken leg were more or less perfect, and if the waiter offers you a taste of the house pigeon (honey-colored, like Peking duck, and with the claw still attached) you should order it on the spot." At Mission Cantina, he likes the tacos and the fact that the restaurant has a "refreshing air of permanence about it." [GS/NYM]
[All'onda by Krieger]
Stan Sagner encounters some hits and misses at All'onda near Union Square: "A shimmering still life of razor clams ($12) was closer to art installation than appetizer. Its components (apple, soppressata) each fastidiously encrusted in clam gelée, were nonsensical unless scooped with just the right selection of its neighbors. It was a lot of effort for what is ultimately a few unspectacular bites." The Daily News critic gives the restaurant two stars out of five. [NYDN]
[Wallflower by Kreiger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ms. Gael Greene has a splashy meal at Masa, Hannah Goldfield files a rave review of Betony, and Ligaya Mishan likes the sophisticated cocktails and French-influenced menu at Wallflower in the West Village.
[Union Square Cafe by Kreiger]
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats editor Max Falkowitz is not a fan of Emmett's in Soho, Immaculate Infatuation's Andrew Steinthal has a superb meal at Union Square Cafe, the Pink Pig is pleasantly surprised by The Runner, NYC Foodie digs The Clam, Scarlett Lindeman loves the tacos and everything else at Mission Cantina, Joe DiStefno samples the Ultraman noodles in the Flushing Mall Food Court, and NY Journal has a terrific meal at All'onda near Union Square.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
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