The same self-confidence that can get on your nerves also allows this crew to mess around with French cuisine with a hugely energizing lack of respect....They smudge the pages of Escoffier with strange foreign spices. It may sound like run-of-the-mill fusion, but it is a top-to-bottom remix.
Wells is a fan of the mille-feuille with a Thai green curry: "It's a disorienting dish, and makes your head spin in a wonderful way." The much-discussed chicken two ways also gets high marks from the critic. Still, the restaurant still needs some time to settle into itself, says Wells. But with the super duper ambitious plans from the Torrisi boys ahead, that time may not exist. Two stars.