Steve Cuozzo Finds Masayoshi Takayama Missing at Kappo Masa and a Menu of Highs and Lows

Steve Cuozzo found Kappo Masa's dining room consistently missing a key ingredient, master sushi chef Masayoshi Takayama, who wasn't at the restaurant even once during Cuozzo's four visits. Don't expect the restaurant to be Masa-lite, says Cuozzo:

Hint: While much of the food is terrific, if not exactly Japanese, don't expect it to be remotely akin to Masa's. And while it isn't in the same price class, either, you may walk out wondering where $240 for two went.

Still, some of the dishes stand on their own, even without Takayama, but others flop:

Bay scallops were seared to a Mediterranean-redolent sizzle with anchovy, garlic and mitsuba for $28. A great dish! But why did a few morsels of terminally over-grilled black cod cost $44? "I think it uses imported miso that's very expensive," our waitress offered.

Two stars.