GQ Critic Alan Richman Thinks the Pizza at Marta Isn't as Great as New York Pizza

GQ food critic Alan Richman files a rare review today, and weighs in on two very different pizza restaurants: Emmett's, one of New York's very few purveyors of deep dish pizza, and Marta, the Roman-style hot spot from Danny Meyer. He's luke warm on Marta's thin-crusted pies (and thin crusts in general), though he grants that the toppings are "complex and inventive." He likes the deep dish crust even less, and ultimately decides:

I don't think either of these establishments, despite their virtues, offers the best pies in New York. They are in business for several reasons: Danny Meyer has always been fascinated by all things Roman, and Emmett Burke hails from the suburbs of Chicago. A fundamental reason for the early success of both places is that New Yorkers are forever after what is new, not what they have always known and loved.

In other words, he'd rather stick to the classic slice.