Pete Wells Loves Nick Anderer's Crispy, Ultra-Thin Roman Pizza Crust at Marta

Pete Wells, like almost every other food writer in New York City these days, is enchanted with Danny Meyer's crowd-pleasing Roman pizzeria Marta. He's particularly enamored with the ultra-thin crust on Nick Anderer's pies:

Marta's crusts are even thinner than what we think of as thin.... It is durably crisp, unbendingly flat, and when you hold a slice by the edge, the rest of it juts out above the table like a cliff. Because everything I know about cliffs was learned from Wile E. Coyote, I kept waiting for the tip on each Marta slice to give way, but it never did...It's pure crunch, all the way.

The toppings get high marks, too.

This is where you see Mr. Anderer thinking like a cook. He has a great pizza-fied version of carbonara, with dots of egg and grated pecorino over crumbled, starchy potatoes and baconlike curls of guanciale.

Marta's expansive dining room in the lobby of the Martha Washington Hotel, says Wells, is best enjoyed like a pizzeria, not a place to leisurely eat a multi-course meal. "After a while, the comings and goings can make you feel as if you're eating in the waiting room of a train station." The verdict: Two stars.