Ko 2.0 Is More Mature Than the Original, Says Village Voice Critic Zachary Feldman

The Village Voice's Zachary Feldman posts a very early look at Momofuku Ko 2.0 and compares it to the original: "Whereas old Ko felt like a private recital, the vibe now is closer to that of Aziz Ansari (an admirer of Chang's) playing Madison Square Garden." As for the food, he gives a good run down of several of the 20 presentations he ate on a recent night, a mix of new dishes and Chang classics:

Some dishes are straightforward fun. A shot of grape soda and grape jelly...a nostalgic tease in the same vein as old Ko's fried apple pie. Other tastes, like smoked trout consomme supporting buoys of trout mousse, or the rye mille-feuille with yuzukosho, trout roe, and matcha green tea powder....reflect a certain maturity, utilizing restraint while still employing strong flavors.

Ultimately, this is just an early look, so no final judgement was handed down. But, he does say this: "The concept has made a seamlessly graceful transition; this is just the sort of place to foster that special brand of progressive creativity the Momofuku empire champions."