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Cuozzo Still Loves Justin Smillie's Short Ribs, But Thinks Upland's Menu Needs Work

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He's not impressed with the pasta.

Daniel Krieger

Is Justin Smilie plagiarizing his own work from Il Buco by serving his short rib for two at Upland? Steve Cuozzo isn't sure, but the dish is still excellently prepared, so he doesn't much care. Other menus items at Upland don't get the same pass, particularly the pastas and desserts:

'Ewws' rang out over chilled farro noodle 'spaghetti' with sea urchin. Colatura (anchovy oil) and yagenbori (Japanese spices) stung like gum medication a dentist warns 'might not taste so good'...A street fair sells better cinnamon doughnuts than Upland's dry, doughy numbers. Bitter, unripe and herbally afflicted 'pomelo salad' is strictly for masochists.

There are redeeming moments during Cuozzo's visits, particularly with appetizers and a five-lettuce Caesar salad, but "At a good new restaurant that's striving to be OMG-good, it's a pity that a few stinkers have the last word." Two stars.

Upland

49 Collins Avenue, , FL 33139 (305) 602-9998 Visit Website

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