British restaurant critic Jay Rayner was in town recently, and took the time to review Ignacio Mattos and Thomas Carter's smash hit Estela for the Guardian. He starts off with a few jabs at how "New York" the restaurant is — complaining of cold staff, impossible tables, and the whole shared plates thing. But he's impressed nonetheless with the food:
Most impressive and most divisive is a plump folded omelette hiding the unashamedly creamed oyster tang of sea urchins. It's an outrageous idea. It makes every other act of food pimping look like a feeble, half-hearted effort. It's a glorious dish and worth the fight for a table alone. Could someone in Britain please half-inch it?
In any case, he says, it's not like trendy London restaurants don't follow the same model.
Also, as a bonus item beneath the review, he gives some love to the versions of food from his home country that April Bloomfield serves at the Breslin.