clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

Pete Wells Awards Two Stars to Tuome in the East Village For Excellent Cooking if Not Innovation

The Times critic admires the culinary skill behind this American-influence Chinese newcomer.

Bess Adler

This week Pete Wells reviews Tuome, the American/Chinese restaurant in the East Village that just earned four stars from Robert Sietsema last week. Although he thinks the dishes aren't all the most creative in form, he's impressed by chef Thomas Chen's culinary skills:

He has terrific control over salt, spices, texture and contrast, weaving them together until you ask, why hasn't anyone done this before? Adding slick duck fat to packets of Cantonese sticky rice steamed in lotus leaves seems like an obvious good idea. So does the extra crackle he puts into the Chinese sausage bits to save the rice from gummy monotony. But they aren't obvious until you taste Mr. Chen's version.

He gives the restaurant, which had been off to a relatively quiet start until recently, a solid two stars.

Tuome

536 East 5th Street, Manhattan, NY 10009 (646) 833-7811 Visit Website

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater New York newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world