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Gael Greene Gets the Royal Treatment at Kappo Masa But Still Isn't In Love

The restaurant is for Masa fans and social strivers, says The Insatiable Critic.

Daniel Krieger

Gael Greene is nonplused by Kappo Masa, Masa Takayama's new more casual project beneath the Gagosian Gallery, on her first visit. First she has trouble being seated without her party (until she's ID'ed, at least). Then the menu is overwhelmingly long, and Masa Takayama is no where to be found:

I glanced at the lineup. So many choices. The listing went on and on, daunting even for marathon eaters like us....Hours later, with a few dragged out intervals of waiting, a couple of thrills and some ho-hums, we signed off at $188 each, including the tip. Disappointed, yes. But most of all, we were shocked that Masa Takayama himself has been nowhere to be seen.

After a few negative tweets, Masa Takayama invites Greene to return when he is in the kitchen, dishing out the royal treatment to her. The meal is better, but still very pricey. As Greene concedes: "If you're a Masa fan or a social striver, you're going to go anyway. Let me tell you what to order":

A bowl with several furls of sashimi under a tangle of microgreens and fried crisps -- the kanpachi jalapeño with potato strings. I pop a furl into my mouth. And gasp. The bite of chile and the nutty crunch of potato slivers against the fish chill. It's all deliciously shocking...

I definitely recommend the $18 spicy chicken wings, not just for comic relief, but because they're delicately torrid and luscious too....

Kappo Masa

976 Madison avenue, New York, NY 10075

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