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Vic's, the Five Points Redo, Blows the Underground Gourmet Away With Pizza and Vegetables

The Robs are so impressed with chef Hillary Sterling's seasonal Italian cooking, they compare her to chefs like Mario Batali and April Bloomfield.

Bess Adler

This week Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite review Vic's, the seasonal Italian remake of Noho stalwart Five Points. They're blown away by just about everything the new chef Hillary Sterling (last seen at A Voce) turns out, from the pizzas, to the pastas, to meat-centric secondi. On those pizzas:

Hers are distinguished by featherlight crusts with credible cornicione and significant blistering; on the textural scale, they fall somewhere between a cracker crust and la vera pizza napoletana, minus the soggy center....[T]he best is the burrata with anchovy and bagnet vert, a parsley-and-bread-crumb sauce that makes a piquant foil for the creamy cheese.

A few pastas falter, but otherwise the Robs are very impressed with the menu, and with the prices for that matter. The verdict: Four stars.

Vic's

31 Great Jones St, New York, NY 10012 (212) 253-5700 Visit Website

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