Pete Wells Gives One Star to Dumpling Galaxy, Flushing's Most Extensive Dumpling Emporium

Pete Wells treks out to Flushing this week, to visit the new and aptly-named Dumpling Galaxy. He samples an unspecified number of the 100 varieties of dumplings served there, and comes out impressed:

I've eaten entire meals that delivered less flavor than a single one of Ms. You's dumplings stuffed with terrific little meatballs of duck and shiitakes. And if those hadn't cheered me up, the fried dumplings would. Ms. You pours watery cornstarch into the pan, which bubbles and browns into a shatteringly thin, dumpling-studded pancake.

The number of options is undoubtedly overwhelming, but the critic recommends choosing the unique creations of owner Helen You over the more traditional fillings. The non-dumpling dishes are also perfectly good, he says, but don't expect attentive service. Wells gives the restaurant one star.