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Pete Wells Awards Huertas Two Stars for Being One of the 'Best Deals in Town'

The Times critic reviews the pinxtos and the set menu at the East Village newcomer. He likes the latter better than Ryan Sutton did.

Paul Crispin Quitoriano

Hot on the heels of Ryan Sutton's review earlier today, Pete Wells also files on Huertas, Jonah Miller's Basque restaurant in the East Village. He approves of the pinxtos, and is also charmed (more so than Eater's critic) by the set menu Miller serves every night in the back room. After the appetizers came skate:

...sweet and still a little juicy inside, with roasted turnips and a pale-green, herbaceous sauce of puréed turnip greens and fennel. The seasonal Greenmarket aesthetic was familiar to me. Would any Basques recognize the dish? They would know the next course, wonderful garlic-and-pimentón-scented lamb hot dogs called chistorra, even though they would be used to seeing chistorras made with pork or beef.

Overall, he deems that $55 fixed menu "among the best deals in town, up there with the how-do-they-do-it bargains at Contra and Delaware & Hudson," and gives the restaurant two stars.

Huertas

107 1st Avenue, Manhattan, NY 10003 (212) 228-4490 Visit Website

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