Post critic Steve Cuozzo tears into the new Park Hyatt restaurant, the Back Room a One57. The room is a "cookie-cutter, brown-on-brown, high-ceilinged void," and the pricey food no better:
Hyatt's idea of presentation wouldn't cut it at tourist-packed Rue 57 down the block. Lobster 'salad' turned out to be a Thermidorish cream bath with a few leaves scrunched into a coffee cup. Pricey meat cuts sprawled naked in the center of big, unadorned plates.
He even goes so far as to compare the Kobe beef to something one might find at Tad's Broiled Steaks. And either by accident or by design, he doesn't bother awarding his usual star rating.