Steve Cuozzo stops by the Rainbow Room for the lavishly priced $95 brunch. To him, the menu (and "Singapore" noodles that recall soggy takeout) seems almost irrelevant — it's all about the view and the statement that New York is back. "Manhattan has not had a sky-high dining experience since 9/11. The new Rainbow Room celebrates the grandest occasion of all — New York's rebirth, revealed in its radiant, heart," writes Cuozzo.
Still, he offers some insight into what to eat and what to stay very far away from for those who want to drop a Benjamin for brunch:
Well-turned out breakfast favorites are the way to go: marvelously runny scrambled eggs, honey-baked ham, smoked salmon, sweet-spicy chicken sausage and perhaps the best pain perdu (French toast) in town....But sushi tasted indistinct. Breadstuffs fell flat. Popovers, a normally flaky indulgence, were leather-tough and cold, to boot. Utterly awful Asian efforts were typified by shrimp har gow encased in what might be plastic.
The restaurant only just reopened, so hopefully the kitchen will figure out how to not have food taste like plastic and remedy some of the other problems. In the meantime, a drink at the new bar SixtyFive on the same floor, which offers the same view for cocktails priced around $25, might be the way to go. 30 Rockefeller Plaza, Midtown