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Ten Days Away From Opening, Cosme Is Making Artisan Single-Origin Corn Tortillas by the Dozen

Enrique Olvera's tortillas come in two colors, and will never be cold.

Daniel Krieger

For those who haven't heard, house-made tortillas made from artisan kernels are the essential restaurant accessory of the fall. They come in two hues, sun-bright yellow and a worn denim-y indigo. Enrique Olvera's team at Cosme has been hard at work practicing their nixtamalization skills with the Cadillac of tortilla machines, the Celorio:

A lot of ink has been spilled over these little babies, but the most important thing to know is that they will arrive at tables warm, courtesy of heated stones at the bottom of the tortilla baskets, because no one likes a cold tortilla.

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