[Waltuck] doesn't have to ask himself whether a pair of pot stickers filled with mashed potatoes can be a four-star dish. That's a boring question. The point is that finding potatoes inside crimped pan-fried dumplings surrounded by a haze of shaved summer truffles is a funny, delicious surprise. He must be playing, too, when he stirs sea urchin into a deep bowl of guacamole. Avocado doesn't need extra creaminess, but it takes extremely well to briny seafood, as you find out when you spread some on a grease-free taro chip.
Not every dish hits the mark, and a lot of the more talked-about dishes — including the duck burger and the General Tso's sweetbreads — fall flat. But nonetheless, he gives the restaurant two stars.