This morning Adam Platt files a double review of the two new fried chicken spots in town, Root & Bone and Birds & Bubbles. Contrary to most other critics who have weighed in on the matter, he's more impressed by the latter:
The whole-chicken dinner costs $65 and includes three side dishes (try the crispy potato salad and the Vidalia-onion soufflé) and a basket filled with knobby-topped country biscuits and dense blocks of fresh-baked jalapeño cornbread. The bird is hoisted to the table (or the bar) in a large silver Champagne bucket, and what it lacks in salty, just-cooked crunchiness it makes up for in tender chicken flavor and good old-fashioned fun.
He's also impressed by how "elegant" many of the non-chicken dishes are. Meanwhile, Root & Bone's oft-hyped chicken "works well enough" for Platt, but not much else does. Ultimately, Birds & Bubbles gets two stars, while Root & Bone gets a fat goose egg.