After quietly ending things last month, Corvo Bianco at 446 Columbus Avenue is now slowly morphing into The Milling Room, with chef Scott Bryan (late and briefly of Bacchanal) newly installed at the helm. Restaurateur Luis Gonzalez has installed a large pizza oven (ironically, a dream of Elizabeth Falkner, who didn't stick around long after the restaurant opened), removed the banquettes, and put his waitstaff in edgy black Converse sneakers for the new incarnation. Gonzalez will also be installing LED lights around the room's large skylight, and he hopes to open as early as next week.
Bryan held an informal tasting for a group of friends last night, where he served appetizers like hamachi with avocado, cucumber, chives and yuzu, and crisp sweetbreads with capers, pickled fennel, and tarragon. This is still an Italian-leaning restaurant, so there were also pasta like rabbit pappardelle with porcini, and chittara with cockles, sepia, chilies, tomato, and lemon. Among the entrees were Atlantic codfish with white bean puree and mussel bouillabaisse, roasted farm chicken with celery root and black trumpet mushrooms, and grilled Berkshire pork chop with sweet and sour cipollini onion jus. Presumably pizza will make an appearance somewhere in there too.