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Ligaya Mishan digs the African/Asian/American menu from Alexander Smalls and Joseph Johnson at The Cecil: "[M]any of the pleasures here are subtle. For wild bass, Mr. Johnson draws on a jerk recipe from his great-aunt in Barbados, balancing the heat with soy, orange and lime zest so the dish soothes rather than inflames. Wok-fried lo mein noodles, accompanying a hearty duck leg, are tinged with a delicate Indian-style cashew broth." [NYT]
