As noted yesterday, Philly Import Han Dynasty gets a big fat goose egg from Pete Wells this week. But the critic also reviews six-month-old Japanese newcomer Hirohisa:
I love the way Hirohisa Hayashi, the chef, brings out the whispering harmonies that result when one small wave of flavor laps against another.Wells gives the kappo-style restaurant one star. [NYT]
He finds those harmonies in the way lightly charred blocks of sesame tofu come together with buttery lobes of sea urchin and shreds of fresh wasabi. And again in the bowl of raw salmon layered over white rice, which becomes a steaming soup as you add roasted green tea from a pot. And again in the gently sweet and seductive stew of lobster in white miso and dashi.
[Tao Downtown by Bess Adler]
Steve Cuozzo files a highly entertaining review of Tao Downtown today: "Tao Downtown's dim sum and small plates by the score register as a soy, ginger and sugar onslaught. Think lumpy, steamed chicken gyoza, bony barbecued ribs in a sweet, syrupy substance and disturbingly mushy tuna atop tiny crispy rice cakes. The latter were $17 for six morsels, or $2.83 per bite. A pair of yakitori lamb chops ($18) in their entirety would not fill a cavity, and the only part of 'sizzling soy chicken' that sizzled was the bowl, which the waiter advised us not to touch." He does, however, give high marks to the Peking duck. One and a half stars. [NYP]
Michael Kaminer gives three stars to Onomea, Crystalyn Costa's Williamsburg Hawaiian restaurant: "Main courses sound intimidating, such as the inelegantly named Kalua Pig ($15). But the smoky slow-cooked pork paired with shredded cabbage was downright dreamy, especially when you add the superb egg-fried rice ($1.50), an upgrade you can substitute for white. A scoop of slightly peppery macaroni salad rounds out the dish; the combo's called a plate lunch in Hawaii, Costa explains. Most mains come with the lightly mayonnaised mac, and it's worth a visit just to get some." [NYDN]
[Rotisserie Georgette by Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene rounds up her favorite restaurants of 2013, Amelia Lester likes many of the dishes at Rotisserie Georgette, and Ligaya Mishan is dissapointed by some of the things she tries at convivial Upper East Side newcomer The East Pole.
[El Colmado at Gotham West Market by Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats editor J. Kenji López-Alt thinks that Barawine is a great neighborhood restaurant, Immaculate Infatuation's Chris Stang loves the sandwiches at Little Collins, Gotham Gal has a satisfying meal at Cafe China, The Food Doc is impressed by El Colmado at Gotham West Market, NYC Foodie checks out Empire Diner, Hannah Palmer Egan wishes the food at The Cecil was more consistently delicious, Eat Big Apple is not totally blown away by Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop, Joe DiStefano discovers goat tlayuda at Cienega Grocery & Deli in Corona, Goodies First samples a few dishes at El Colmado and The Cannibal, the Pink Pig encounters some hits and misses at Betony, and NY Journal thinks that Peter Luger doesn't quite live up to the hype.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]