Daniel S. Meyer gives three stars out of five to M. Wells Steakhouse, the new Long Island City restaurant from Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis: "Dry-aged Nebraska côte de boeuf for two ($130) smacks lustily of the barnyard, enough to pardon its fat-glistened meat for being one shade shy of medium-rare. Dufour's fluency in foie gras—honed at Montreal mecca of excess Au Pied de Cochon—demands saving room for a side of massive gnocchi ($15) stuffed with luscious hunks of it; firm and crisp, the dough is less gnocchi than kingly knish." [TONY]
Alan Richman heads to Hudson, New York to review Zak Pelaccio's Fish & Game: "Brined and smoked pork shoulder from the desirable mulefoot pig consists of two chunks, one rather lean and the other almost pure fat, accompanied by pleasing cured peaches and an overwhelmingly intense ginger sorbet. A steamed egg with sorghum vinegar and grilled calamari is so undercooked none of us can eat it. There's confit of duck gizzard and grilled duck heart with kale kimchi. The rye pasta with bacon, tomatoes, and mustard is the tastiest and most appealing dish, even though the pasta looks like green beans." Richman gives the restaurant one star. [GQ]
Although Pete Wells pans the place, Adam Platt finds some winning dishes on the menu at Villard Michel Richard, especially in the Gallery room: "The courtly maître d' is a veteran of Richard's restaurant projects in D.C. and L.A., and the dishes served—Dover sole poured with chicken-consommé emulsion, foie gras brûlée topped with soft segments of citrus and grapes, an ingenious mock caviar made with Israeli couscous and squid ink served in a silver tin among glittery crystal 'ice cubes'—feel like a collection of ye olde greatest hits culled from the chef's storied career." Platt gives the restaurant two stars. [GS/NYM]
[The Cecil by Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gale Greene likes the fish dishes more than the meat options at M. Wells Steakhouse, Shauna Lyon digs the Persian fare and the vibe at Café Nadery in the Village, and Ligaya Mishan is impressed by the menu and the hospitality at The Cecil in Harlem.
[Shalom Japan by Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats editor Max Falkowitz likes a lot of the menu at M. Wells Steakhouse, Immaculate Infatuation's Andrew Steinthal gives an 8.4 rating to Shalom Japan in Williamsburg, The Food Doc files a detailed recap of a recent lunch at Momofuku Ko, NYC Foodie pays a first visit to All'onda, Zachary Feldman thinks that Flat Top is a terrific neighborhood restaurant, Chekmark Eats has a great meal at Mission Cantina, Goodies First samples the Cinnamon and Lesbians soft serve at Momofuku Milk Bar, Joe DiStefano discovers solid Georgian food at Marani in Rego Park, Eat Big Apple is not completely blown away by Tanoshi Sushi on the Upper East Side, and NY Journal recommends skipping the gimmicks and going for the steakhouse dishes at Quality Italian.
· All Reviews on Eater [~ENY~]
[Top photo: M. Wells Steakhouse]