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Week in Reviews

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Gael Greene likes the fish dishes more than the steaks at M. Wells Steakhouse: "[T]he trout, cooked au bleu, quickly in a salty court bouillon bath, is the miracle. It's banked with poached cabbage and fingerling potatoes, wearing a boa of brown butter tartare sauce with bits of cornichons and capers. Pommes boulangères get the Wells treatment too: garlic butter, bacon, thyme and 'lots of heavy cream.'" [Insatiable Critic]