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New York critic Adam Platt is impressed by the food that's coming out of Daniel Burns's kitchen at Luksus in Greenpoint. Platt admits that "all the maddening little tropes of the haute-Brooklyn dining experience are on display," but he thinks the restaurant deserves three stars, overall. On the food:
Instead of razor clams one evening, my tasters and I enjoyed a delicate helping of chicken oysters, followed by flat pink sheets of steak tartare dressed with sliced tomato and a diaphanous, deliciously crackly substance that our waitress merrily described as an "onion chip." My favorite main course was the lamb breast, which the kitchen marinates in buttermilk, burnt hay, and yogurt, then sears in crunchy-skinned slices and plates with a spoonful of a cool, faintly gamy lamb's-tongue salad on the side.Platt also files on Betony in Midtown this week. Although he likes many of the dishes on Bryce Shuman's "occasionally overfussy menu," the critic is turned off by the decor. Betony gets two stars.
· Three Stars for Luksus; Two Stars for Betony [GS/NYM]
· All Coverage of Luksus [~ENY~]
[Photo: Daniel Burns by Krieger]
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