Week in Reviews

Although he does not like one of the restaurant's most popular dishes, Alan Richman is won over by Paul Liebrandt's The Elm: "You should not ignore The Elm. It's a singular restaurant where Liebrandt demonstrates his artistry in ways he hasn't before. He is one of our finest American chefs as well as a New York treasure, all talent and temperament. But when you go, don't have the chicken." He gives it three stars out of four. [GQ]