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hillcountrybbq-9.jpgFormer New York Times critic Frank Bruni writes an ode to the pleasures of being a restaurant regular after years spent dashing from one hot spot to the next: "To be a regular is to insist on something steady in a world and a life with too many shocks, too much loss. The week can go off the rails. The month can go all the way to hell. Hill Country's brisket is still there, forever fatty, a promise kept." [NYT]

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