Week in Reviews

Pete Wells likes many of the dishes on Ignacio Mattos's menu at Estela. On the beef: "As he does in other dishes, Mr. Mattos uses flecks of char almost as a spice. With the pulse-quickening slices of beef, the blackened edges from charred eggplant get together with the oily intensity of anchovies for an irresistible roughness and force." Wells gives the restaurant two stars. [EaterWire]