Joshua David Stein comments on the growing number of Scandanavian restaurants appearing in New York these days. Stein writes that they're presenting variations on the theme of "slight men in blue aprons and neat beards serving austere-but-playful dishes on irregularly glazed plates atop light wooden tables." The appeal, he speculates, has as much to do with the Nordic lifestyle as the food itself: "They're not just restaurants, they're utopias." [DuJour]
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