Alan Richman Spends $316 in One Hour at ZZ's Clam Bar

After arguing with the well-dressed "majordomo" at the door and calling the reservation line at the very last minute, GQ critic Alan Richman finally scores a table for two at ZZ's Clam Bar in Greenwich Village. He's completely enamored with Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi's luxe seafood plates, the cocktails, and the atmosphere. But the experience starts to sour when a noisy lady sits next to him, a kid with a backpack walks in to use the restroom, and the bar fills up a bit.

Richman pays $316, including tip, for his one-hour meal. The critic writes:

ZZ's is incredible. It's a supremely stylish, delicious raw bar. But if it's going to cost $316 per hour—two can get a grand meal at a 4-star restaurant in New York for not much more—it has to upgrade the experience. To such obvious necessities as exquisite food, conscientious service, and thrilling ambiance, add the most difficult obligation of all: cosseting the customer, making him feel protected, indulged, special. That requires militaristic discipline and unwavering attention.