The New York Times site is currently down. But, today, Pete Wells gives Bryce Shuman and Eamon Rockey's Midtown restaurant Betony three big ones. (Read a version of the review with weird formatting here.) He's impressed by Shuman's cooking, and the polished service in the dining room. On the food:
You already know that shellfish gets along with dill, but do you know that when you take impossibly tender and fresh lobster and cover it with a sauce that's been poured through tied bunches of fresh dill until the scent of the herb fills your lungs, you get something really wonderful?A few of the dishes on the menu don't achieve lift-off, but there are no clunkers, either. Wells hints that the dining room is not as full as it could be, but that might change now.
And, of course, you know that the browned hunks of fat on the edge of dry-aged beef can be a treat. But do you know what happens if you melt that fat and stew a short rib in it for two days, then sear the rib over white-hot charcoal? Mr. Shuman knows, and I'll bet that a year from now other chefs will know, too. Accessorized with grilled romaine and one perfectly fried sweetbread, it's a dish worth stealing.
· All Coverage of Betony [~ENY~]