This week, Ligaya Mishan files on Spice Symphony, the new Indian Chinese restaurant from former Junoon chef Walter D'Rozario. A recommended dish: "Blocks of paneer come submerged in a soup bowl's worth of rust-colored sauce, identified as Sichuan. It is nothing of the kind. Instead, it is a magnificent standoff in which paneer, an earthy Indian cheese reminiscent in texture to firm tofu but more resistant to soaking up flavor, holds its own against sweet hot ginger and chile pepper." [NYT]
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