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Although he has some issues with the service, Alan Richman is very impressed by Estela, the new Houston Street restaurant from Thomas Carter and Ignacio Mattos. Richman writes: "If there is anything wrong with Estela, it's that it allows too many people to come to dinner, but Mattos's cooking is so exuberant, original, unconventional, and compelling, I don't know how you can keep them away. I don't even know what to call his food. Maybe contemporary, but that's so yesterday. I don't think it's Uruguayan. I've been there, and I never ate anything as extraordinary as this." [GQ]