Steve Cuozzo is sick and tired of all these tasting menu restaurants with counter seating: "I'm probably nuts to hope The Little Elm doesn't join Momofuku Ko in the world of Extreme Eating, which is more insufferably elitist, exclusionary and disproportionately expensive than the snooty 'fine dining' of old. This entails struggling for months to book seats at a new restaurant superclass where, to consume 10-20 food items over three or four hours, you'll spend enough to feed a starving Third World village for a week." Do take a minute to read his entire rant. [NYP]
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