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Adam Platt awards two stars each to Estela and The Musket Room. At the former, he finds that Ignacio Mattos is serving some great new dishes: "The ricotta dumplings are by far the best of the four entrée-style dishes at Estela, but if you're in the mood for something slightly more substantial, I suggest the culotte steak, which has the consistency of good fillet and is plated with a streak of salty anchovies and a tart cabbage gratin. " [GS/NYM]
