Although the electricity flickered on and off during one of his visits, Pete Wells is a fan of Uncle Boons, the new Thai restaurant on Spring Street from Per Se alumni Ann Redding and Matt Danzer. On one of the hits:
A coconut-milk-based curry yellow with fresh turmeric is one key to the greatness of Uncle Boons's khao soi. But really, everything in the bowl plays a part: the chicken leg stewed to irresistible tenderness, the pickled mustard greens, the big frizz of fried cilantro-flecked egg noodles on top and the same noodles boiled in the curry. I wouldn't scream if Ms. Redding and Mr. Danzer threw a few more dried chiles into the pot, but this is still the best khao soi I've eaten in New York.Some dishes fall short of their promise, but the service is polished and the menu is a lot of fun. Wells gives the restaurant two stars. [NYT]
Cuozzo, Platt, and Sutton take the week off, but a few critics and bloggers are still at it:
New TONY critic Daniel S. Meyer awards two stars (out of five) to Lao Dong Bei in Flushing: "Lamb ribs, slow-braised until the meat teeters on the bone, are coated in batter and a cloudburst of cumin seeds, ground chili and sesame seeds. These smoky slabs—deep-fried to an impeccably crackly chew—are actually called a lamb chop in Xinjiang style, and, like their American kissing cousin, barbecue, they're best attended by something slawlike to cut through the wobbly fat. Shredded cucumbers with ample garlic and sesame oil fit the bill, as do the tiger vegetables, a straight-shooting pile of slivered scallions, green chilies and cilantro leaves." [TONY]
[Carbone by Krieger]
Gael Greene has mixed feelings about Carbone: " A standard $24 portion of rigatoni alla vodka was still obscenely rich and delicious. The lobster piccata was impeccably tender, the asparagus draped over it properly al dente. But for someone like me, the $87 tariff definitely dilutes the pleasure. No one really expected to like the outsize veal chop Parmesan. This time it was soggy and tough and everyone felt vindicated. Much of the food was aggressively salty, but the creamy, baked escarole with bacon tasted doubly salted—especially annoying, since I couldn't stop eating it." [Manhattan]
Stan Sagner gives three stars (out of five) to Ichabod's on Irving Place: "The kitchen glides smoothly from bar food to earthy entrées. The self-reverentially named 'Crane's Burger' ($19) is a carefully constructed tower of tender, grassy beef, sharp pickle and silken, caramelized red onion. At the risk of provoking a burger debate, this one comfortably holds it own among the city's best and its matchstick fries are flawless. Seared grouper ($25) gets little lift from a curiously bland puddle of hazelnut romesco. But its toothy, perfectly fried green tomatoes are worth the price of admission on their own." [NYDN]
[Charlie Bird by Bess Adler]
THE ELSEWHERE: Carey Jones has a sensational meal at Charlie Bird in Soho, Lizzie Widdicombe is underwhelmed by Antica Pesa in Williamsburg, and Gael Greene is slightly disappointed by Distilled NY in Tribeca.
THE BLOGS: The Immaculate Infatuation boys give an 8.4 rating to ABC Cocina in the Flatiron District, NYC Foodie has a fun night at Speedy Romeo in Clinton Hill, Brownie digs the scone sandwich at Treats Truck Stop, Sarah Zorn from Restaurant Girl checks out the new location of Dinosaur Bar-B-Q, Joe DiStefano tries the steamd whole fish with spiced lamb at Spicy Road, Eat Big Apple is floored by Sushi Dojo in the East Village, the Food Doc thinks that Uncle Boons is a welcome addition to the New York Thai scene, Chekmark Eats is not impressed by the fried chicken at Sweet Chick in Williamsburg, the Pink Pig finds a lot to like at Plan B in Soho, and NY Journal likes the wine more than the food at Pearl & Ash on the Bowery.
· All Reviews on Eater [~ENY~]