Steve Cuozzo is sick of newfangled desserts: "You'd think restaurants would have learned not to play 'assembly required' after short-lived V Steakhouse, where fussily deconstructed lemon meringue pie and berry cheesecake contributed to a premature demise. If customers rejected the style from the great Jean-Georges Vongerichten, why would they embrace it in lesser hands? Yet, at Brooklyn's fine Italian place Red Gravy, poor cannolis were torn to pieces." [NYP]
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