Week in Reviews

Gael Greene files her first impressions of The Elm: "I'm not much moved by the layered disc of foie gras with spiced strawberry gelée or the 'flavors of bouillabaisse' or the Atlantic skate with cauliflower, tiny green tomato halves, marcona almonds and a scoop of raisins and capers in brown butter vinaigrette. But two of my companions are raving. I keep thinking of the emperor's clothes. The friend on my right and I are silent. She too is missing the joy rays that have captured our companions." She loves the agnolotti, the chicken for two, and the desserts. [Insatiable]